My Visitors

Saturday, 9 January 2016

4 January 2016 – Santiago to Lima

The bus trip to Santiago was relatively uneventful, which was a blessing.  It must have been an ‘express’, as none of us has any memory of stopping during the night.  I normally sleep very poorly on the bus, however on this occasion, I only wake up as we hit the outskirts of Santiago.  The girls continue to sleep until about 5 minutes before the busport.  I don’t know how they do it…

We manage to find the ticket booth for the bus to the airport after 10 minutes of wandering around.  Turns out it was right in front of where we got off.  It figures.  The bus is remarkably cheap, only a couple of dollars each for the tickets and we are delivered right to the main terminal.  Great value!

We decide on breakfast in the terminal at a place we’ve eaten at before – Gatsby’s.  It turns out to be the worst decision we’ve made on these holidays.  Terrible breakfast, even for Chileans.  None of us feel particularly well afterwards.  We then head to the check-in gates.  We’re there a good 5 hours before the flight is scheduled to leave and as it so happens, Sky Airlines do not let you check in until 2 hours before the flight.  That leaves us 3 hours to kill.  We’re tired, not feeling great and now bored.  Happy days…  Anyone considering waiting in the check-in area at the Santiago airport, our suggestion is head downstairs, just outside the arrivals hall.  It’s quieter than upstairs.  The café’s there are also better than the ones upstairs!

Eventually the clock wound its way to mid-day and we could check in, which surprisingly, was accomplished without major fuss.  I’ve never flown with Sky before and they are making a reasonable impression so far.

We make our way through the new immigration hall and this time, leaving the country is easy.  Last time was a major drag due to an over-zealous immigration peon deciding to hassle us about Alma and her ‘permission to leave the country’ documentation.  Now she is 18, all that has gone away.

Wandering the halls of the international airport can sometimes be entertaining, but not on this occasion.  We tried to lunch at a few place, none of which had the items we wanted.  Welcome to Chile.  We eventually settled on something eminently forgettable and highly over-priced.

Boarding time came and went.  Goodwill towards Sky is evaporating…  Eventually we get the call to board and guess what.  We are in the absolutely last aisle on the plane.  The one with the special “even smaller than usual” seats.  Nice.  For the snack service, I am the absolutely last person on the plane to be offered something, despite having an aisle seat.  Everyone loves a gringo!

Our arrival into Lima goes smoothly.  So smoothly that we’re out beyond customs before we really know it.  I’d organised a pick-up with the hostal we’re staying at, and good news, there’s a gentleman waiting in the arrivals hall with a sign and my name is on it.  Our driver is a young’ish lad, well dressed and very polite.  He drives like a madman though, along with the rest of Lima who all appear to want to be on the same bit of road with us.  Six lanes of traffic on a five lane road is not unusual.  We cringe with terror for most of the trip to the hotel, however nothing comes of our worries and we arrive safely.  Along the way, we’ve been treated to a beautiful sunset.

The hostal looks nice from the outside and is functional inside.  The Manager(?) is very helpful and soon we’re in our room.  It’s not very large (which is OK – we’re only here for one night), featuring a double bed and a bunk.  There is a private bathroom for us across the hall.  The most worrisome feature is the absence of an airconditioner or fan.  When I’d made the booking, I forgot that we’d be arriving into Lima in summer and that being on the coast, it might be a bit steamy.  It certainly is.  Despite the temperature not being too high – around 23 degrees, we can feel the humidity.  That might make sleeping uncomfortable.

Meanwhile, we head out for something to eat.  On my last visit here, I had a Mexican meal at a restaurant called “Como agua para chocolate” – Like Water for Chocolate – and it was fabulous.  I insisted that we go there again but had not done enough research about how to get there from the hostal.  The directions we were given turned out to be rubbish.  We arrived near where it was supposed to be and it wasn’t even remotely familiar to me.  We continued asking for directions and had helpful people point us in the right direction, however none had a clue.  We asked a few taxi drivers and none of them were any the wiser either.  Eventually we went looking for an internet café to do some googling but meanwhile stumbled across a café whose staff were somewhat helpful, but even more helpful was one of the clients who overheard us and googled it on her phone.  Turns out we were a long way away.

We eventually found a taxi driver who got us to the right area.  We went to the restaurant and GUESS WHAT?  It was closed for summer holidays.  While I stood dumbfounded at the front door, the owners walked out.  After we light-heartedly berated them, they explained they’d be back on the 20th, which is OK, because we’ll be passing through Lima a bit after that.

Feeling a bit frustrated, we went to the chifa (local version of a Chinese restaurant) next door and had some lovely meals there.

The taxi ride back to the hotel was again interesting.  The taxi driver had to stop and ask directions from a local tourist police officer – apparently it’s one of the things they are there for – but we eventually got there, after having to stop again and ask some guy walking his dogs where the street was.  He turned around and pointed at our hostal…

3 January 2016 - Temuco

It’s finally time to say goodbye to Temuco on this trip, which of course means a busy time with family and some friends who insist on dropping by or us having a last visit.  Morning involved a long awaited visit to the Museo Regional de Araucania.  I’ve always been interested in visiting but we’ve never found the time and Andrea has never been too interested.  On this occasion, she has some old photographs to donate to the museum.  We tried visiting a few days ago but they were on an indefinite strike and therefore closed, however today everyone appears to have patched up their differences and the museum is open.  While Andrea goes through the rigmarole of donating to the museum director, I get the chance to wander through a display of Mapuche silver jewellery, which is very interesting.  Not only the displays of the items themselves, but the stories that go with them.

Downstairs was a more traditional display of items relating to the Temuco area and its history.  There’s lots of pottery, stories about the Spanish settlers and life in the region.  Quite interesting as well, especially the pottery.

Back at HQ, lunch was in preparation for us and an aunt, uncle and two cousins.  As expected, it was a long, leisurely affair with far too much food!

By late afternoon, we had to duck out and catch up with some close friends for the final time.  Of course they had afternoon tea prepared for us…

After finally escaping without having to have eaten anything, we headed back to the Out-laws.  We had some final dessert type things (a delicious tart), said our goodbyes to the aunt/uncle/cousin and commenced the final struggle to pack everything into our suitcases, now bulging at the seams.  In my case, one of the seams is giving way.  The suitcase is not that full, just old.  OK, perhaps it is just full…

We head off to the Temuco bus terminal with about 25 minutes before the bus is scheduled to leave.  Should be plenty of time, but we have forgotten that this is the final day of the Christmas holidays for most and everyone is heading back to Santiago.  Needless to say the access to the bus terminal is chaos.  We manage to finally get in with about 7 minutes to spare.  As it turns out, the bus is delayed, so we end up hanging around for a while before it arrives.

Final goodbyes are only slightly teary.  On to the bus, settle in and watch a crappy movie, then try to sleep.

29 December 2015 to 2 January 2016 - Temuco

I finally have time to sit down and write about these days.  Unfortunately I can’t remember much happening.  I think we did mostly catching up with friends, wandering the streets and various shops and so on.  And eating too much, drinking too much.  And New Years Eve.

Tuesday, 5 January 2016

28 December 2015 –Caburga, Pucon and back to Temuco

After a lovely sleep-in and leisurely breakfast, we left Maison Nomade and headed up to Caburga to see the Lake.  Shockingly, the local government authority are involved in some useless infrastructure project at the lake foreshore that was completely blocking the usual view and access.  Poor shops etc on front of the lake.  I can’t imagine anyone doing anything different than what we did – turn around and leave.

We headed to Playa Blanca, where you can get another view of the Lake, walk along the edge etc, usually without much in the way of company of other people.  The solitude and views are wonderful.  On this occasion, it was a circus.  Perhaps because of the town foreshore works, there was an abundance of cars, new parking arrangements (in a paddock) that we had never seen previously, all for exorbitant sums (for Chile) of 4,000 pesos to park your car in a paddock.  For that price, one would expect a fancy carpark, toilets and so on, rather than the debacle we found.  Again, we left.

Back in Pucon, we wandered the streets for a while, trying not to twist ankles when stepping off the footpaths.  When we tired of window shopping, we found a pizza and pasta place for lunch, which made a nice change.  Afterwards, we wandered over the road to a dessert café type place called Kuchenlandia, where I indulged in my favourite Chilean dessert of Merengue with raspberries.  Gosh it was good.

Sugared up, we headed back to Temuco as uneventfully as it is possible to be.  I managed to hand back the car to FIL (father-in-law) without any additional marks on it than there were when we left!

27 December 2015 – Pucon

When we are in the Temuco region, we like to take a break from family and head out to the Pucon area for a night or two (or three, if time permits).  Sadly on this trip, we could only manage the one night.  We go to visit friends, enjoy the snow-capped volcano/s, marvel at the green of the forests and perhaps have a change from home cooking.

The drive to Villarica is generally uneventful, other than marvelling at the crazy drivers who insist on trying to overtake at any opportunity, however small it might be.  The road has enough straight sections that mean it might be possible, however there are always moments of having to slow down to avoid the oncoming idiot.  Things seemed a little calmer this time with only two (from memory) scary moments, perhaps due to the very visible presence of carabineros (police) at strategic locations along the road.

The section from Villarica to Pucon is always spent marvelling at the crap state of the road and verge, in addition to the driving skills (or lack thereof) on display.  Because it was a somewhat touristy time of the year, things were slightly complicated by a few hardy souls who chose to ride bikes along the road and pot-holes verge, creating an additional hazard to watch out for.  Sadly, it should be a gorgeous drive along the edge of the lake.  If any of the muppets from the local council should ever chance across this commentary, perhaps they could consider a long-term public works strategy where they provide tourist infrastructure in the region.  For example, re-lay the road, add in a bicycle pathway along the edge, add in some overtaking lanes.

Then we could mention Pucon – a town idling along due to past glories.  Invest in infrastructure!  Fix the damn footpaths and verges, tidy the place up with a professional rubbish collection system – make it a place to be proud of, rather than one that thinks it doesn’t have to do anything and people will just come anyway.  It should be so much nicer…

Rant over.

Needless to say, we stay outside of Pucon at a B&B called Maison Nomade.  Lovely place.  This was my fourth visit and because Alain and Carolina continue to invest in improving the place and the experience of visitors, I’m already looking forward to visit number 5!  And the view to the Villarica Volcano remains stunning!

Friday, 1 January 2016

26 December 2015 - hmmm

Something must have happened on the 26th.  By the time of writing, it doesn’t stand out as having been memorable.  I think I exchanged a Christmas present – a belt that was too long.  Apparently I’m still not fat enough…

24 - 25 December 2015 - Christmas

The opening of Christmas presents in Chile occurs at midnight on the 24th-25th transition.  The festive season gorging takes a slight break on the 24th, although I’m not sure how widespread this is – it may be a result of my complaining about how I feel like a prize pig being fattened up for the oven on Christmas Day.  I’ve told them if I see anyone coming towards me with an apple, I’m going to run away!

So, food-wise on the 24th, it was (relatively) light salads and so on.  Presents opened, it was time for bed.  My presents were largely clothing and wine – perfect for an already full and heavy suitcase!

Oh, and the goat for tomorrow arrived.  In a sack.  Dripping blood.  The girls are not happy.  Alma went upstairs a bit upset with the idea of what was happening.  Eventually she calmed down a bit and came down to wish her grandparents good night, only to find them in the middle of chopping off the head!

The morning of the 25th was a hive of activity as preparations for lunch commenced.  The poor old goat was splayed onto the frame for cooking over the BBQ, the wine chosen, and much fretting over the lack of space in the fridge.  Much the same as back in Oz!

My job has become the production of a sufficient quantity of pisco sour, due to Andrea talking up my “skills”.  Sadly it’s all chamullo and I’m very much an apprentice.  I have a method that varies significantly but seems to produce acceptable results to my taste, although I’m still not sure if when everybody says “Suave”, whether that’s good or really, they want more pisco in it.  Personally, I like not being belted in the face by it!

An uncle and two aunts, plus a cousin arrived to share lunch.  All ate their fill (and more).  All felt slightly queasy afterwards.  Andrea and I didn’t eat dinner, as we were still completely stuffed.

Another typical Christmas over and done with.