We catch the train to Aguas Calientes at about 7.30AM. Not the earliest train we could have caught,
but early enough. It seems hard to
believe it rained last night – looks like we’re going to have a nice day.
The scenery along the route to MP is spectacular. Extraordinarily steep mountains, raging river
(unfortunately full of plastic bottles), scattered Incan ruins along the way,
along with local villages and crops (some more scenic than others).
We arrive into Aguas Calientes and to be honest, I’m a
little dismayed. We were funnelled through
a market and then into the town. Crammed
into a narrow valley and chock-full of shops whose sole existence centres
around MP. Staying at Ollantaytambo was
nicer.
We queue for bus tickets up to MP. As to be expected, the situation is hopeless. Countless people arrive at once and everyone
wants a ticket. What do we find. One ticket office. Two windows to sell tickets, back to back,
which means two lines in opposite directions.
Ticket sales are a slow process, which involves inordinate delays for no
apparent reason. Cash only. Must show passports and this required
substantial extra time. It would take
some effort to design a less efficient system!
Once one has a ticket for the bus, you must then join the
next queue, this time for the actual bus up the mountain. The queue is located randomly along the
footpath in the street and again, you must show your ticket, show your
passport, and eventually you’ll get onto a bus.
No use of scanners etc. All
manually verified, which takes far longer than it needs to.
The trip up to MP is surprisingly dusty for the rainy
season, but quite spectacular. Then we
arrive. People mill around
aimlessly. We fight our way through the
guides and make it to the entrance. We
show our tickets, find our passports (AGAIN!) and finally we’re in.
Lordy, it’s a spectacular setting. Despite the countless photo’s, it’s still an
impressive site although it having been built up so much in our minds, there
are elements that don’t quite reach expectations. For example, there is less of the famous
Incan stonework than I’d thought, it is smaller than I’d imagined (although
still a big enough site) and as per usual, there are no explanatory signs
around the place. I have long concluded
that the lack of signs is a deliberate ploy to provide work for the guides who
plague the place. Nothing inherently
wrong with that I guess, provided the guides are up to scratch and give you all
the relevant information.
Anyway, we wander the site for about 3 hours and are pretty
exhausted at the end of that time, with lots of photos.
We queue for bus back down to Aguas Calientes, wait for the
train to Ollantaytambo, and are on our way.
On arrival into Ollantaytambo, there are hordes of transport
options back to Cusco. We decide to take
a private taxi for 50 soles. Good price,
nice enough car, nice driver.
Back in Cuzco at the hotel, I now have earplugs, just in
case! We’re back in the fancy room
upstairs with the view. And the disco
noise…
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