My hotel room stinks! I understand why all of the windows were wide open when I arrived - the room has been populated by a smoker, or series of smokers, in the not-too-distant past and when I woke up this morning, the smell was very prominent! Not so great and now that I've been in it for the better part of a day, the smell is at least subtly through my clothes. Bummer. I don't think I'll be closing the windows completely again!
Despite the fumes, I've managed to sleep fairly well last night with a big sleep-in this morning. Breakfast is included in the room rate, and although it is not really an exciting choice, it is sufficient. The TV in the corner of the room is attracting a fair bit of attention from the few wait-staff and scattered other guests. Coverage is of the trapped miners near Copiapo and there seems to be a bit of despondency creeping in to the rescue efforts. There is certainly angst amongst family members at it having been so long since the collapse in the "decline" that has blocked off access. Not that I am certain as to what is being said, but it appears that there is a fair bit of blame being thrown around as to why things aren't going faster. It's not a good sign.
I haven't written about this because I've only seen snippets of the coverage due to my not watching much television these days, so I was far from up to date on anything that was going on. Mum was also saying that there wasn't much in the way of coverage back in Australia. It also hasn't seemed likely that much positive will come out of the whole event, despite the faith being shown by the locals in the chances of the survival of the group. It is fair to say that by now, their faith is being tested in a fairly significant way! Personally, I don't hold out any hope for their survival, and haven't done so for the last week. My memory of underground refuge chambers is that they don't hold that much food and water for 33 people to survive on for a couple of weeks. Perhaps I'm wrong, although my scepticism about the chances of a successful end to the whole episode is quietly shared by a number of people who've asked for my opinion on the matter (as if I'm some kind of expert...).
Having doubled the amount that I knew about what was going, I headed off into the wilds of Santiago. The Museo de Bellas Artes is a gloriously beautiful building that I'd seen on my first day in Santiago back in April. On that occasion, I'd stumbled across it while walking between the Cerro Santa Lucia park and the Parque Forrestal. There was a man standing across the road from it on that occasion, doing who knows what with his long wooden sword. It was all very peculiar - me looking at him (as discretely as possible, because after all, he had a sword), him warily watching me walking around. In the end, I got a sly photo of him and didn't get stabbed. One-nil to the gringo...
In April, I didn't really know what the Museo was about and didn't have a lot of time to check it out, but by now I understood that it is the fine art museum. Excellent, so I thought. Having wandered around the outside of the building, it became apparent that the damage sustained from the big earthquake earlier in the year was not yet completely repaired. Some areas still had "danger tape" around them and there was plenty of evidence of cracked and broken materials.
Entrance was cheap, only a few thousand pesos (perhaps A$5 or so) and from the ticket stand, the building turned out to almost have a small plaza inside it, covered over by a glass/perspex roof. It brought back memories of the Louvre, although at a much smaller scale.
There was a photographic exhibition by students from around Chile, with a theme of "their neighbourhood" and it was fascinating to see what catches the eye of kids in their lives. It certainly gave an interesting insight on what it is possible to see if you are prepared to look around and consider things from a different perspective!
An art class was also busy sketching the various sculpture works around this display area, which made for interesting viewing - both the sculpture and the attitudes/postures/concentration of the students.
The other side of the room featured drawings by kids of primary school age of their neighbourhoods (I think), and presume it was for those who might not have access to a camera, or weren't trusted with one?
Upstairs was where the damage from the earthquake became apparent, with the presence of significant amounts of danger tape in front of most of the galleries, which was a shame. The one main gallery open upstairs featured an eclectic mix of pieces, ranging from pictures from the 1700's through to very modern "things" which just weren't my scene... Some of the portraiture was just beautifully done and well worth the price of entrance. As was usual around Santiago at the moment, one is never too far away from the sweet tones of Americans, chatting to each other quietly and discretely (not). Here's some breaking news - just because the locals don't speak the same language, doesn't mean that your voices don't carry through the entire building and that you aren't pissing people off!
A basement gallery of more modern sculpture completes the currently available viewing in the museum. In all, very recommended given you don't come with too high expectations given by the extremely grand exterior of the building. Perhaps when the damage is repaired and more is open to the public it will be even better!
Outside the museum, I'm treated to a juggling display from some buskers at the traffic lights. This is very common here, with variably talented performers given short demonstrations of their skills in the hope of snaring some loose change from passing drivers. I have to say it makes a nice change from the offers of windscreen washing in Perth! The locals are quite generous with giving a few coins to the kids each time they pass through - it would be rare for the performers not to get anything from one set of lights. All visitors to Santiago would therefore be well advised to keep a collection of coins handy when driving through the city!
Next, the Plaza de Armas, which I have visited previously, but this time I'm there during opening hours of another museum, the Mueseo Historico Nacional, at the moment featuring (as you might expect from something entitled the National History Museum), a display of fans. It was tucked off into a little wing of the building, next to the "old weapons" display. Curious, although it must be a somewhat famous exhibition, judging by the big sign at the front of the museum...
The rest of the museum was filled with the usual art and artefacts that one would expect in a national history museum. All excellent again, particularly the very grand (large) works on canvas' up to perhaps 4m high. It is actually possible that I was supposed to pay to get into this one, however perhaps there is some small bonus in being a vague-looking gringo and just wandering blithely in through the entrance and looking like I own the place!
After that, I spent the rest of the afternoon wandering the Centro area of the city, which appears to be where the majority of the big old buildings are. I stumbled across the "Palacio de Gobierno - La Moneda" (beautiful, not to mention well guarded), set next to a small park complete with statues of many/all of the ex-Presidents. Next to that was the "Intendencia Metropolitana", whatever that contains, but seeing as neither building looked like it was particularly open for inspection by tourists, I contented myself with the outside and the spring weather. Random wandering through the arcades (how many jewellery, baby clothing and bra shops is it necessary for one city to have?), followed by another train ride, took up the rest of another brilliant day.
On the way back to the hotel, I take a little detour through Providencia to check out some potential restaurants for dinner. I discover "themed restaurant" central, the most entertaining of which are the American paddle steamer and the Bedrock (i.e. Flintstones). Out the front of the paddle steamer, I am "accosted" by one of the touts chasing up customers by spruiking about the restaurant they work for. "Ivan", which may or may not have been his real name, started out in Spanish, but quickly figured out I had no idea what he was on about, and switched to very good English. Despite thinking that it might not be such a good idea to stop and chat, I found myself standing on a street corner for the next half hour listening to Ivan about life in Santiago, his life (which involved 20 years growing up in America, hence the good English), followed by the last 10 years here in Santiago. He turned out to be surprisingly good value, despite being a classic "salesman" type personality. He talked nearly continuously, his eyes constantly darting back and forth looking at the people walking past, always on the lookout for the next opportunity to spruik to passers-by. He claimed to know just about all of the locals in the area and when I said that I was looking for somewhere for dinner, made me promise to come back later in the evening for a further chat. His major incentive appeared to be the opportunity to speak English - something I don't understand as being as attractive as it seems to be for some here, but obviously is.
Back at my hotel, it was siesta time (they are NOT nanna-naps here - that description is just not understood) and preparation for the night. My hotel is in the (alleged) middle of the restaurant area, so I was looking forward to a night out people-watching. As I've mentioned before, the rumour is that people don't come out until quite late, and seeing as I still hadn't been able to stay up late enough to see it, I was interested to have a look at what goes on.
So, 8.30PM, and I head back to see crazy Ivan and his mates in the Louisiana paddle boat restaurant thingie. OK. I'm the only customer inside the restaurant/bar. This has some advantages, the most significant being that the place does not reek of cigarette smoke! I obviously have my choice of where to sit, and ultimately decide to take a seat where I can watch the goings-on outside in the street. Ivan has disappeared, hopefully to get some sleep, as apparently he has been up for pretty much the last two days and was feeling a bit weary. His place out the front of the building has been taken by a Johnny Depp-like Pirates of the Carribean character, who appears to be scaring off potential customers, rather than bringing them in. It is all very entertaining to watch them doing a big loop around him, and him following them down the street trying to lure them in.
Ultimately, as had been predicted by others (and not believed by me), 11PM ticked past, and suddenly, the place began to fill. I left at about 11.45PM and there were people everywhere. Restaurants busy and clubs with big queue's out the front, and there was Ivan, back again for another go. He manages to spot me and homes in. We spend the next 30 minutes or so chatting again and by that stage, I'm ready for bed. Despite his protestations about it being too early and the fact that there are many beautiful girls that he knows just a short walk away in the surrounding buildings, I head back to my hotel, dodging the hookers along the way. Crossing the street that separates Las Condes from Providencia, it is remarkable that everything is suddenly almost quiet - everyone is either asleep, or they've all headed off to Providencia!
Goodnight.
A
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